{"id":106012,"date":"2017-05-25T08:00:27","date_gmt":"2017-05-25T07:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/amateurphotographer.co.uk\/?p=106012"},"modified":"2017-06-12T09:28:01","modified_gmt":"2017-06-12T08:28:01","slug":"6-night-photography-tips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/latest\/photo-news\/6-night-photography-tips\/","title":{"rendered":"6 night photography tips for shooting better cityscapes"},"content":{"rendered":"<h1>1. Create star bursts<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105539 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry create star bursts\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg?resize=300,200 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg?resize=600,400 600w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg?resize=900,600 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-create-star-bursts.jpg?resize=562,375 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>Turn street lights into star bursts to add a dramatic effect to your scene. For star bursts use a small aperture (higher f\/stop) of between f\/14 and f\/20. The more diaphragm blades your lens has and the longer the exposure time, the more pronounced the effect.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>2. Shift the white balance<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105546 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry shift the white balance\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg?resize=300,200 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg?resize=600,400 600w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg?resize=900,600 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-shift-the-white-balance.jpg?resize=562,375 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>On cloudy or wet evenings long exposures can make the sky look a murky brown. Reduce this by shifting the white balance temperature slider in Lightroom towards cooler, or convert the image to black &amp; white to enhance the contrast of artificial light against the night sky.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>3. Explore ghosting<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105541 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry explore ghosting\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg?resize=300,188 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg?resize=630,394 630w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg?resize=900,563 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-explore-ghosting.jpg?resize=562,351 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>Ghosting is caused when people in your frame move during a long exposure. If people are constantly moving and the exposure is long enough they may not appear but alternatively you can shoot multiple frames of the scene and blend them out in Photoshop.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>4. Set yourself goals<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105545 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry set yourself goals\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg?resize=300,200 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg?resize=600,400 600w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg?resize=900,600 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-set-yourself-goals.jpg?resize=562,375 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>When shooting cities in low-light conditions you have a relatively narrow window of workable light in which to get your shots, especially in winter when the sun sets faster and it gets darker earlier. Plan ahead and have a specific destination in mind before going out.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>5. Try digital blending\/HDR<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105540 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry digital blending HDR\" width=\"1000\" height=\"667\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg?resize=300,200 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg?resize=600,400 600w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg?resize=900,600 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-digital-blending-HDR.jpg?resize=562,375 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>Some cityscape photographers prefer to use HDR or digital blending techniques rather than rely on a single exposure. Long exposures can create extreme contrasts, with blown highlights or loss of detail in the shadows, often nullified by HDR or digital blending.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>6. Get out in the rain<\/h1>\n<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-105542 size-full\" src=\"\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg\" alt=\"Matt Parry get out in the rain\" width=\"1000\" height=\"625\" srcset=\"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg?resize=300,188 300w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg?resize=630,394 630w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg?resize=900,563 900w, https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/16\/2017\/05\/Matt-Parry-get-out-in-the-rain.jpg?resize=562,351 562w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/>\n<p>Rain is one of the most challenging elements to contend with when shooting long exposures. Water droplets on the lens are usually visible at narrow apertures, so check your lens between shots and wipe with a cloth. If using an umbrella or cover make sure to keep it out of the frame.<\/p>\n<h3><strong><em>All images \u00a9 Matt Parry<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>What to bring:<\/h1>\n<h3>Tripod<\/h3>\n<p><em>A tripod is essential for shooting the longer exposures required in low light. The compact, stable and lightweight carbon fibre MeFOTO RoadTrip is a perfect travel and cityscape tripod as it is easy to carry and extends to a great working height.<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Spare batteries<\/h3>\n<p><em>During long exposures your camera is working harder. This kind of photography can therefore drain your batteries quicker. If you are shooting on a cold morning or evening this can impact battery performance, so you should carry spares.<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>The Photographer&#8217;s Ephemeris app<\/h3>\n<p><em>If you want to shoot a cityscape that includes an iconic building, bridge or monument when it is lit up, it pays to do some research as to when the lights usually go on. Check this against the sunrise\/sunset time and direction using an app such as The Photographer\u2019s Ephemeris or PhotoPills. Preparation is key.<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Remote shutter release<\/h3>\n<p><em>A simple remote shutter release, such as the Canon BR-E1, will remove the risk of camera movement caused by pressing the camera\u2019s shutter. They also give you better control over the timing of shots in Bulb mode. The BR-E1 has a 5m range.<\/em><\/p>\n<h3>Filters<\/h3>\n<p><em>While filters have limited use once you hit the blue hour, I always carry a range of Lee Filters for sunrise and sunset including Neutral Density Grads for controlling the sky, a circular polariser for reflections and ND filters in case I want to shoot any long exposures.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In the hours just after sunset, there&#8217;s real potential for some impressive creative shots to be taken &#8211; if you know how. Matt Parry breaks down a few quick ways to get the most out of shooting in the blue hour<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":323,"featured_media":105542,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39],"tags":[],"product-category":[],"class_list":["post-106012","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-photo-news"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.8 (Yoast SEO v26.8) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>6 night photography tips for shooting better cityscapes - Amateur Photographer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"There&#039;s real potential for some impressive creative shots to be taken after the sun goes down - if you know how. 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