{"id":117800,"date":"2018-06-08T12:12:29","date_gmt":"2018-06-08T11:12:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/amateurphotographer.co.uk\/?p=117800"},"modified":"2022-08-26T15:42:37","modified_gmt":"2022-08-26T14:42:37","slug":"top-macro-flower-photography-tips","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/technique\/top-macro-flower-photography-tips\/","title":{"rendered":"Top macro flower photography tips"},"content":{"rendered":"

If I was allowed to keep only one of my lenses, it would have to be my macro lens.<\/strong> It\u2019s a Micro Nikkor 105mm and probably my oldest lens \u2013 so old that it doesn\u2019t have any new-fangled features like vibration reduction. But the reason why I love it is that it allows me to see things in a completely different way. As an adult you probably wouldn\u2019t choose to lie flat on frosty ground to look at a crocus. Add a macro lens into the mix and perhaps you would \u2013 just to see each delicate crystal of ice on the petals. It\u2019s a whole new world of beauty!<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\"Snowdrops\"\t\t\t

Credit: Sue Bishop<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

1. Use a tripod<\/h2>\n

I always use a tripod if possible, as it helps with very precise focusing. It also means that you can really fine-tune your composition. For very low-growing flowers, use of a tripod can be awkward. So I usually lie flat on the ground and brace myself on my elbows.<\/p>\n

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2. Group shot<\/h2>\n

It\u2019s always lovely to photograph one fl ower with others of the same type in the background, using a wide aperture to throw them out of focus. They support the main subject in terms of colour and shape, but are soft enough not to distract from the main flower.<\/p>\n

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3. Light conditions<\/h2>\n

Very often the best light for photographing flowers is bright and overcast. Because the light is diffused by high white cloud, it doesn\u2019t create any shadows. If you do photograph on a sunny day, using a reflector will help to boost the light on the shadowed side of the flower.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\"Tulip\"\t\t\t

Credit: Sue Bishop<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

4. Creative cropping<\/h2>\n

It\u2019s also fun to photograph just part of a flower, cropping right into it so that the petal edges are cut off. Make sure though that your crop looks definite enough to come across like it is obviously intentional \u2013 if you only crop off a couple of petal tips, it might just look like a mistake.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\"Windflower\"\t\t\t

Shooting in close proximity to your subject will reduce the depth of field significantly. Credit: Sue Bishop<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

5. Focus manually<\/h2>\n

When you are working on close-ups, your depth of field will be very shallow, especially at your widest aperture. So it\u2019s important to decide exactly which part of the flower you want to be sharp. To achieve this, manual focus is best, and live view can help you check that you\u2019ve got it perfectly right.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\"Cherry\t\t\t

Credit: Sue Bishop<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

6. Consider your backdrop<\/h2>\n

If you fill the frame with your flower, you won\u2019t have to worry about backgrounds. But if there is a background in your image, make sure it isn\u2019t distracting. Avoid bright colours, especially if your subject is a paler colour. If the background is messy, use a wide aperture to throw it out of focus.<\/p>\n

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\n\t\t\t\"Anemone\"\t\t\t

Credit: Sue Bishop<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

7. Viewpoint<\/h2>\n

Think about your viewpoint. It\u2019s often good to get down to a flower\u2019s level and approach it from the side, rather than looking down on it from above. Look through your viewfinder as you move around \u2013 every tiny change in your angle to the flower will affect the image radically.<\/p>\n

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Kit list<\/h2>\n