{"id":127570,"date":"2019-04-13T15:50:39","date_gmt":"2019-04-13T14:50:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/amateurphotographer.co.uk\/?p=127570"},"modified":"2019-04-13T15:50:58","modified_gmt":"2019-04-13T14:50:58","slug":"top-tips-shooting-landscapes-spring","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/technique\/top-tips-shooting-landscapes-spring\/","title":{"rendered":"Top tips for shooting landscapes this spring"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Credit: Paul Mitchell<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

1. Composition<\/h2>\n

They say that rules are meant to be broken, but the rule of thirds is still probably the most useful way to achieve an aesthetically pleasing composition. Most cameras will allow you to place a grid on either the viewfinder or viewing screen. Pay close attention to what is happening on the intersection points of that grid and how the foreground and background elements relate to the nine areas.<\/p>\n

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2. White balance<\/h2>\n

I always try to encourage clients to move away from using auto white balance as it is invariably inconsistent and, in the majority of cases, will add an unappealing blue cast. I tend to find that the \u2018daylight\u2019 or \u2018cloudy\u2019 setting is better suited for landscapes. Of course if you are shooting raw, you always have the option to change it post-capture.<\/p>\n

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Credit: Paul Mitchell<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

3. Stay local<\/h2>\n

Very often, people travel far and wide for images but forget what possibilities exist on their own doorstep. Study OS maps of your local area and make note of local woodlands, heathlands and public footpaths running through open countryside. Having somewhere local also gives you the advantage of reacting quickly to the changing weather conditions and certain times of the day.<\/p>\n

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4. Be creative with depth of field<\/h2>\n

Add perceived depth to your images by using a wide aperture. This technique works particularly well in woodlands, where you can isolate an individual tree or branch by having a soft background. I often make one image at f\/11 and another at f\/2.8 and decide which I prefer later.<\/p>\n

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Credit: Paul Mitchell<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

5. Be weather wise<\/h2>\n

Become an avid weather watcher and try to predict what the conditions are likely to be. A passing weather front could herald a good sunrise or sunset, for example. High pressure, clearing skies and light winds could be a recipe for mist or fog. The weather can be unpredictable, which is why I refer to a selection of weather apps and combine the relevant information.<\/p>\n

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6. Choice of focal length<\/h2>\n

Most people\u2019s initial response to landscapes is to use a wideangle lens as this pretty much replicates what they see. This can be an advantage when at the coast or in the open countryside. Using a longer focal length can help isolate parts of the landscape, especially if there are distractions such as over-bright areas. They can also compress elements within a scene, creating patterns and rhythm.<\/p>\n

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Credit: Paul Mitchell<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

7. Aspect ratios<\/h2>\n

Try to break away from the usual 2:3 aspect ratio. I find that 2:3 works well for straight landscape images but don\u2019t discount 16:9 for a slightly wider, panoramic feel. I sometimes use a Micro Four Thirds camera, which has a 4:3 ratio, which is perfect for portrait-orientated landscapes. The square or 1:1 ratio is ideal for bold graphic images that include centrally placed elements.<\/p>\n

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Kit list<\/h2>\n