{"id":146396,"date":"2021-03-05T15:15:49","date_gmt":"2021-03-05T15:15:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/?p=146396"},"modified":"2021-03-12T12:54:05","modified_gmt":"2021-03-12T12:54:05","slug":"how-to-create-vertical-panoramas-with-drones","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/technique\/landscape_photography-technique\/how-to-create-vertical-panoramas-with-drones\/","title":{"rendered":"How to create vertical panoramas with drones"},"content":{"rendered":"

Drones have completely revolutionised photography and video in recent years, thanks in part to a flurry of easy-to-fly models with high-quality cameras being launched. Not only do they allow photographers to reach locations otherwise inaccessible on foot, but they also help us to capture the world from viewpoints previously only possible from a helicopter. The ability to send a drone to an altitude of up to 120m at a moment\u2019s notice, as long as you can see the drone and it\u2019s safe and legal to do so at the chosen location, provides myriad photographic opportunities.<\/p>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t

Honister Pass, Lake District
DJI Mavic 2 Pro<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

Why manual HD panos are best<\/strong>
\nDJI drones are actually capable of automatically shooting and stitching together vertical panos in JPEG format, with the option to save the original raw files.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

The image above is straight from camera and provides no sky detail while looking generally washed out.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

While this vertical pano was manually edited, but without bracketed exposures to create an HDR image there was only so much sky detail that could be recovered.<\/p>\n

How to bracket your exposures<\/h2>\n

\"\"
\n1 Position your drone<\/strong>
\nUse an app such as NATS Drone Assist to check the location you wish to fly at, to ensure it\u2019s safe and legal to do so. Take-off and fly your drone into position, leaving it in a hover while you set up the camera to shoot five bracketed exposures using AEB (automatic exposure bracketing).<\/p>\n\"\"\n

2 Set up the camera<\/strong>
\nUse the histogram to assess exposure and set it correctly for the middle exposure. If shooting with a drone with an adjustable aperture set it to between f\/2.8 and f\/4 in aperture priority mode and use exposure compensation. If shooting with a drone with a fixed aperture, simply set the shutter speed.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

3 Take your shots<\/strong>
\nTake three or five bracketed shots, starting at the top or the bottom of the scene, making sure that each shot overlaps the last by 30-50% by changing the angle of the camera. You may need to adjust exposure slightly for each set of bracketed shots so that the middle exposure remains similar each time.<\/p>\n

\n

Top tip<\/strong>
\nWhen using the AEB feature on DJI drones, you\u2019re given the option to shoot three or five bracketed exposures. These brackets are one stop apart, so if the contrast in the scene isn\u2019t too large three exposures will be fine, but for scenes where the sky is significantly brighter than the ground, you\u2019ll need to set five exposures.<\/p>\n

\n

Capture vertical scenes with more detail<\/h2>\n

There\u2019s no denying that aerial photography can be awe-inspiring, but there\u2019s one small limitation and it\u2019s that all but one drone model can only shoot landscape-format images.<\/p>\n

The original DJI Mavic Pro features a gimbal that can rotate the camera into portrait format, but the DJI Mavic 2 Pro and Mavic 2 Zoom, for instance, use larger heavier cameras that the gimbal is unable to rotate on the horizontal axis.<\/p>\n

This means that you need to work harder to capture aerial uprights. Not only does this technique allow you to capture portrait-format images that will suit some locations more, but you\u2019ll also increase the effective resolution of your drone which means larger prints and an increase in image quality. Most consumer drones have sensors of comparable size to mobile phones, while only a handful have a 1-inch sensor \u2013 which, while much larger, is still significantly smaller than APS-C or full-frame sensors.<\/p>\n\t\t

\n\t\t\t\"\"\t\t\t

Beeston Castle, Cheshire DJI Mavic 2 Pro<\/p>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\n

Capture more detail<\/strong>
\nTo further improve image quality, as well as shooting a vertical panoramic, each constituent section needs to be shot with exposure bracketing turned on. With three to five bracketed exposures taken at each point, detail can be captured from the shadows, through the midtones and to the highlights; the exposures can then be blended to create HDR images that are then merged to create the pano.<\/p>\n

This sounds complicated, but in reality it\u2019s incredibly easy. Once you\u2019ve merged your three to five bracketed exposures for each section of the vertical panoramic to a single HDR image in Lightroom, you\u2019ll be left with three to five landscape-format shots that will need to be merged in Photoshop because Photo Merge Panorama in Lightroom is unable to deal with vertical HDR panoramics.<\/p>\n

Also, when creating HDR Panoramas in Lightroom, Deghosting is unavailable so ghosting \u2013 moving objects captured in different positions in the various exposures \u2013 can be an issue.<\/p>\n

Step by step: how to merge your images<\/h2>\n\"\"\n

1 Highlight images<\/strong>
\nIn the Library thumbnail view, locate your bracketed constituent pano images in Lightroom and colour label each one alternating red and yellow so you can quickly identify each set. Left mouse click on the first image of a bracket set, hold down Shift and click on the third or fifth image depending on how many brackets you shot, before pressing six on the keyboard for red, or seven for yellow. Repeat for each set of images.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

2 Merge to HDR<\/strong>
\nSelect the first set of three or five bracketed images, right mouse click on the selected images and go to Photo Merge>HDR. When the dialogue window opens make sure Auto Align, Show Deghost Overlay and Create Stack are checked and that Auto Settings are unchecked. Try different Deghost Amounts to see which is most effective, using the lowest possible, and hit OK. Repeat this process for each set of bracketed images.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

3 Edit first image<\/strong>
\nEdit the first image of the set in the Develop Module \u2013 this will be the HDR DNG at the top of the image stack created in the previous step. For HDR images, the Shadows and Highlights sliders allow you to recover detail, while the Whites and Blacks sliders can boost blacks and whites for a more natural-looking result. Don\u2019t push the Shadows and highlights too far because this can cause halos along high-contrast subject edges.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

4 Synchronize Settings<\/strong>
\nWith the first image highlighted, hold down Shift, left click on the final constituent image and click on the Sync button at the bottom of the interface. When the Synchronize Settings dialogue box opens, click on Check All and unselect Crop as each HDR image will have been cropped differently during the merge process. Next, click on Synchronize to apply the same settings to the rest of the images.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

5 Fine-tune adjustments<\/strong>
\nThe exposure in images just synced may be different from the first shot, so go through each and match exposure so it\u2019s as close as possible from one image to the next. To further improve sky detail, use the Graduated filter to darken the sky and recover highlights. Apply a Graduated Filter individually to each image with sky visible because the size of the Graduated Filter will be different for each.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

6 Export and Photomerge<\/strong>
\nSelect all of the constituent pano images and hold down Ctrl+Shift+E to Export. Select file type \u2013 here, 16-bit TIFF was selected \u2013 and save to your desired location. Make sure After Export is set to Do Nothing. Open Photoshop and go to File>Automate>Photomerge and leave Layout set to Auto, Set Use to Files and click on Browse to locate your folder of images then click OK to merge.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

7 Crop to 2:3 format<\/strong>
\nThe image will render, and you\u2019ll see empty space around the image that needs to be cropped out. Press C on the keyboard to activate the Crop tool and set the crop ratio to 2:3 (4:6). Left click on the image and drag the guide out. Release and click on the centre of the crop guide to drag the guide into a new position if required. Click on the tick at the top of the interface to commit to the crop.<\/p>\n\"\"\n

8 Flatten and edit<\/strong>
\n<\/span>Right click on the Layers in the Layers panel and select Flatten Image. At this stage, you can apply adjustments as required to complete the processing of the image and save it in the required format. If you\u2019d like to keep layers intact save as a TIFF, reducing bit depth to 16-bit by going to Image>Mode>8 Bits\/Channel, or save as a JPEG if no Layers need to be kept.<\/p>\n

\n

To read more articles like this one subscribe to our print magazine today. You\u2019ll save money every week and enjoy having each issue delivered to your door! Click here<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Bored of landscape-format drone photography and bleached-out skies? Discover how to capture and create vertical HDR panoramic images<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":146410,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[375,368,39],"tags":[],"product-category":[],"class_list":["post-146396","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-expert_advice","category-landscape_photography-technique","category-photo-news"],"yoast_head":"\nHow to create vertical panoramas with drones - Amateur Photographer<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Bored of landscape-format drone photography? 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