{"id":16023,"date":"2011-07-14T08:33:00","date_gmt":"2011-07-14T07:33:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/amateurphotographer.co.uk\/uncategorized\/masterclass-with-paul-hobson-at-west-country-wildlife-photography-centre-16023"},"modified":"2014-10-23T11:35:28","modified_gmt":"2014-10-23T10:35:28","slug":"masterclass-with-paul-hobson-at-west-country-wildlife-photography-centre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/other.kelsey.host\/amateurphotographer\/technique\/wildlife_photography\/masterclass-with-paul-hobson-at-west-country-wildlife-photography-centre\/","title":{"rendered":"Masterclass with Paul Hobson at West Country Wildlife Photography Centre"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>Photo by David Morton <\/em><\/p>\n<p>Producing strong images of small British mammals in the wild can be tricky. Some photographers would even go so far as to say that, with certain species, it&#8217;s almost impossible. That&#8217;s why Paul Hobson took three readers to the Westcountry Wildlife Photography Centre in Lifton, Devon. The centre provides an opportunity to photograph a range of captive mammals, such as brown rats, otters and voles. Importantly, the site offers the opportunity to photograph these small mammals in constructed sets, allowing for shots that, in the wild, would be a time-consuming and headache-inducing endeavour.<\/p>\n<p>Paul explains that producing strong images of small mammals can be difficult because they are seldom seen in their natural environment.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021c0_7Ce037_Paul_Hobson_Field_vole_main.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><\/p>\n<p>\u2018These animals can be difficult to track down because they are so small and secretive,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018Unlike photographing humans, animals can be frustrating to work with as they don&#8217;t follow verbal commands. They&#8217;re incredibly active, so the photographer has to be able to call upon his or her skills and work quickly to maximise the opportunities as they occur. Specific sets will allow us to explore the basics of creating good images and to consider different approaches. There will also be an opportunity to look at some of the larger animals they have here, such as the European beaver and wild boar, and we&#8217;ll see that the same rules apply.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Strong mammal portraits produce powerful images that are always in demand,&#8217; Paul continues. \u2018Working at the Westcountry Wildlife Photography Centre gives us an excellent opportunity to practise techniques that will increase the ability to capture successful wildlife images.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>Each AP reader was asked to bring along their own cameras, lenses and tripods. Paul asked the readers to bring a lens that allowed close focusing, such as a macro or a lens with a macro feature. Alternatively, they could bring a mid-sized lens such as a 200-300mm with extension tubes.<\/p>\n<p>Paul is passionate about wildlife photography and feels strongly that British wildlife is a subject that is being sorely neglected in contemporary photography. <\/p>\n<p>\u2018From a conservation point of view, I think there&#8217;s a danger that we&#8217;ve become transfixed by big foreign animals,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018So many British wildlife photographers seem to have lost touch with their immediate environment. They&#8217;re zooming all over the world just to capture the same few images of the same tigers and zebras. But that neglects the kind of wildlife that could easily be found in their back garden. There&#8217;s no reason that creatures such as bank voles and harvest mice can&#8217;t be interesting.&#8217;<\/p>\n<h3>Westfield Wildlife Photography Centre<\/h3>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_0000021c2_c7ef_Westcountry.jpg\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"10\" align=\"right\" class=\" alignright\"><\/img><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Location<\/strong><br \/>\nWestcountry Wildlife Photography Centre, Upcott Grange Farm, Broadwoodwidger, Lifton, Devon PL16 0JS. Tel: 01409 211 578. Website: www.wcwpc.co.uk. Email: derekjgow@aol.com. The facility has a wide range of established indoor and outdoor sets in place that house various species. All sets are fully enclosed with specially designed portals to allow unimpeded vision of the animals inside. They are planted to mimic a range of natural habitats with fully mature vegetation, rocks, logs and established landscaping. The centre can be reached by following the A388 and coming off towards Virginstow or by following the A30 and coming off towards Cross Green.<\/li>\n<li><strong>Admission charges<\/strong><br \/>\nDay rates: Minimum of four individuals with animal handler and photographer \u00a3179. Weekend group photography courses: Arrive Friday and depart Sunday night with accommodation, breakfast and a packed lunch included, and animal handler and photographer in attendance (minimum of four individuals) \u00a3330. All bookings must clarify which species you wish to photograph in advance.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p><strong>Your AP Master&#8230;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2012\/08\/11134_7C0000020c2_7C70d6_Paul_Hobson_headshot.jpg\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"10\" align=\"left\" class=\" alignleft\"><\/img><em>Paul Hobson<\/em><br \/>\nPaul studied environmental science at Sheffield University and has worked as an environmental sciences lecturer for 25 years. With more than 20 years&#8217; photography experience behind him, Paul was specially commended in the 2008 Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition and two of his images were exhibition finalists in the British Wildlife Photography Awards 2009. Paul regularly lectures on wildlife photography and also runs workshops. Visit www.paulhobson.co.uk<\/p>\n<p><strong>The AP readers<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b1_7C58e3_David_Morton1.jpg\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"10\" align=\"left\" class=\" alignleft\"><\/img><em>David Morton<\/em><br \/>\nDavid is from Somerset and is a sales person for an outdoor clothing brand. His photographic interests include portraiture, mountain photography, wildlife and landscapes. He uses a Nikon D700 with 180mm macro lens. \u2018To be able to photograph these small mammals in these sets has been fantastic,&#8217; says David. \u2018It&#8217;s hard work trying to photograph small animals in the wild, but it&#8217;s a great set-up here.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021bc_7C7e1e_Pam_Sherron1.jpg\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"10\" align=\"left\" class=\" alignleft\"><\/img><em>Pam Sherron<\/em><br \/>\nPam is from Devon. She is retired and uses a Canon EOS 500D and Tamron 80-270mm lens to shoot wildlife. It has been a really enjoyable day,&#8217; says Pam. \u2018It&#8217;s a great photographic opportunity. I learned how important it can be to get the background out of focus to accentuate your subject.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b6_7C6201_Di_Wilkins.jpg\" border=\"0\" hspace=\"10\" align=\"left\" class=\" alignleft\"><\/img><em>Di Wilkins<\/em><br \/>\nDi is retired and lives in Devon. She has a love of shooting macro photography and uses a Canon EOS 5D Mark II with 100-400mm and 100mm macro lenses. \u2018The location is brilliant,&#8217; says Di. \u2018I&#8217;ve learned a lot from Paul, not only about photography but also about the animals. It&#8217;s made me realise how at risk our small mammals are. Photography days like this can help to raise awareness.&#8217;<\/p>\n<h2>Would you like to take part?<\/h2>\n<p>Every month we invite three to five AP readers to join one of our experts on an assignment over the course of a day. The experts are <strong>Paul Hobson<\/strong> (wildlife), <strong>Tom Mackie<\/strong> (landscapes) and <strong>Cathal McNaughton<\/strong> (street photography). Paul next workshops will be in July and October and Cathal will be holding sessions in June and September, and Tom in May August and November.<\/p>\n<p>If you would like to take part, visit <a href=\"http:\/\/amateurphotographer.co.uk\/photo-announcements\/535119\/tuition-for-free-for-a-day-with-a-pro-photographer-the-amateur-photographer-masterclass-series-2012\">www.amateurphotographer.co.uk\/masterclass<\/a> for details of how to apply. Please remember to state which Masterclass you would like to attend and make sure you include your name, address, email address, daytime telephone number and two or three examples of your work in your application. Each participant will be able to use his or her own camera, lenses and other equipment<\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<h2>Creating your own sets<br \/>\n<\/h2>\n<p>Building your own set can allow &#013;<br \/>\nyou to previsualise how you want your shot to look, which is a virtually&#013;<br \/>\n impossible task when shooting in the wild. However, it&#8217;s important to &#013;<br \/>\nbe disciplined when collecting material to work with.\u2018Don&#8217;t rush out and&#013;<br \/>\n grab the first thing that looks interesting,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018Spend some &#013;<br \/>\ntime researching and collecting the right props. It&#8217;s crucial to ensure &#013;<br \/>\nthat the set is in keeping with the natural history and environment of &#013;<br \/>\nthe creature you&#8217;re working with. You wouldn&#8217;t have a short-tailed field&#013;<br \/>\n vole in a set made to look like a forest because that isn&#8217;t realistic &#013;<br \/>\nas they live in fields. So make it visually appealing, but in keeping &#013;<br \/>\nwith your subject. Also, be careful not to overwork your set. Make sure &#013;<br \/>\nit&#8217;s not too busy, otherwise it could end up looking horribly contrived.<\/p>\n<p>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b0_7Cdc1a_creating_set_Atwell.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><\/p>\n<p>\u2018Make&#013;<br \/>\n sure you previsualise your image so you can have some control over your&#013;<br \/>\n composition and where the animal will appear in the shot. You can &#013;<br \/>\npersuade the creature to go to certain places by placing a little food &#013;<br \/>\nunder some moss or leaves, or you could even make a little tunnel that &#013;<br \/>\nthey&#8217;ll hopefully move through and poke their head out of. Once you&#8217;ve &#013;<br \/>\nprevisualised your shot, you can ensure that everything remains &#013;<br \/>\nbalanced.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018When building the set, it&#8217;s crucial to provide places &#013;<br \/>\nin which the animals can shelter and hide. They need to have somewhere &#013;<br \/>\nto retreat to otherwise they&#8217;re going to become incredibly stressed and &#013;<br \/>\nthat&#8217;s really not what wildlife photography is about. The welfare of the&#013;<br \/>\n subject is more important than your image.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Manual Settings<\/strong><br \/>\n\u2018With&#013;<br \/>\n regard to settings, I prefer to use aperture priority,&#8217; says Paul. &#013;<br \/>\n\u2018Aperture priority allows you to determine the depth of field and &#013;<br \/>\ntherefore the background. Over the years, through trial and error, I&#8217;ve &#013;<br \/>\nlearned to understand which f-stop and shutter speed will be appropriate&#013;<br \/>\n for each subject. That understanding is an important skill to develop. &#013;<br \/>\nAperture priority also allows you to produce work with shallower depths &#013;<br \/>\nof field and therefore faster shutter speeds, such as 1\/100sec. This is &#013;<br \/>\ncrucial to get a nice diffused background and means you don&#8217;t have lots &#013;<br \/>\nof blurred images. Small mammals don&#8217;t stay in one place for too long &#013;<br \/>\nand they can be off in the blink of an eye.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018There are a lot of &#013;<br \/>\npeople who set their ISO to automatic so the speed doesn&#8217;t get too low. I&#013;<br \/>\n don&#8217;t do that because I like to know what ISO my camera is set to all &#013;<br \/>\nthe time. I&#8217;ll choose a higher ISO if I want to. I don&#8217;t need the camera&#013;<br \/>\n to tell me.&#8217;<br \/>\n<strong><br \/>\nAutofocus vs manual<\/strong><br \/>\nAccording to Paul, while using autofocus is a good idea, it is not without its problems.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018If&#013;<br \/>\n you&#8217;re shooting small mammals and using autofocus, there&#8217;s always a &#013;<br \/>\nrisk that the lens will lock onto the animal&#8217;s nose and not the eye,&#8217; &#013;<br \/>\nsays Paul. \u2018There can be many occasions when you look through the &#013;<br \/>\nviewfinder and place the focus sensor over the eye that the focus &#013;<br \/>\ndoesn&#8217;t catch. Bear in mind that when photographing small mammals the &#013;<br \/>\nsubject is quite small, but the camera&#8217;s sensor is quite large.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b9_7C9597_Di_Wilkins.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by Di Wilkins <\/p>\n<p><\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u2018One&#013;<br \/>\n way that you can tackle the problem is to hold down the shutter halfway&#013;<br \/>\n and let the focus settle. Then you can tweak it manually and get the &#013;<br \/>\neyes sharp. Of course, if you&#8217;re dealing with something like a vole, &#013;<br \/>\nthen it is unlikely to stay in one position for too long. The &#013;<br \/>\nalternative is to use a tripod and set up your camera pointing at a &#013;<br \/>\nlocation where you feel sure the animal will appear. Then turn off &#013;<br \/>\nautofocus and trust your eye. Autofocus is a brilliant tool, but you &#013;<br \/>\nmustn&#8217;t let it drive your photography. It can be particularly good in &#013;<br \/>\n&#8220;servo&#8221;, otherwise known as focus tracking, where the lens will keep the&#013;<br \/>\n subject in focus as it moves around the frame, but don&#8217;t rely on &#013;<br \/>\nautofocus. Learn when to override it and turn it off.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<h2>The Background<\/h2>\n<p>\u2018The&#013;<br \/>\n first thing I learned as a wildlife photographer is that your &#013;<br \/>\nbackground is as important as your subject,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018When you&#8217;re &#013;<br \/>\nshooting wildlife, having the wrong background can destroy your image. &#013;<br \/>\nIf you&#8217;re photographing a small mammal such as a bank vole, for example,&#013;<br \/>\n it&#8217;s likely that you&#8217;ll want to keep the subject relatively large &#013;<br \/>\nwithin the frame and create a nice portrait shot with the head and &#013;<br \/>\nshoulders. However, if there&#8217;s a white leaf or a distracting line in the&#013;<br \/>\n background, your eye is going to be drawn to that straight away. If &#013;<br \/>\nthat happens, the quality of the image is lessened significantly.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b3_7Ceddb_David_Morton_background_2.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by David Morton<\/em><\/p>\n<p>\u2018So&#013;<br \/>\n many shots can be ruined by not paying attention to the details. A way &#013;<br \/>\nto tackle these potential problems is quite simple: use the depth of &#013;<br \/>\nfield preview button. It&#8217;s one of the most neglected functions on a &#013;<br \/>\ncamera. I&#8217;ve actually had people say that they pressed it and thought &#013;<br \/>\nthey&#8217;d broken their camera because everything went dark. It&#8217;s there for a&#013;<br \/>\n reason, so use it.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b2_7C1f14_David_Morton_1.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by David Morton<\/em><\/p>\n<p><strong>At eye level<\/strong><br \/>\nOne of the most important things to remember when arranging a shot is to get the eyes of the subject in focus. <\/p>\n<p>\u2018It&#8217;s&#013;<br \/>\n definitely true that the viewer will look at the eyes first,&#8217; says &#013;<br \/>\nPaul. \u2018I suspect it&#8217;s something that&#8217;s been passed down to us through &#013;<br \/>\nhundreds of generations, something primitive and instinctive. As humans,&#013;<br \/>\n we engage one another with eye contact because it&#8217;s a part of &#013;<br \/>\ncommunication. When the eyes of an animal are in focus, it creates a &#013;<br \/>\nlevel of intimacy that relates to meeting their eye level. Having the &#013;<br \/>\neyes in focus draws you into their world.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021bd_7C28dd_Pam_Sherron_eye_level.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by Pam Sherron<\/em><\/p>\n<p>Something else Paul was keen to point out was how important it is to shoot from the same eye level as your subject.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018If&#013;<br \/>\n you get down to the animal&#8217;s level you see the world as the subject &#013;<br \/>\nsees it,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018Importantly, getting down low pushes the &#013;<br \/>\nbackground a lot further away, so it becomes more blurred and that can &#013;<br \/>\nreally help to accentuate your subject. If you stand over the subject &#013;<br \/>\nand angle your camera pointing down, then there is no background to push&#013;<br \/>\n out of focus &#8211; there&#8217;s only the ground, which can contain many &#013;<br \/>\ndistracting elements and render your image quite flat. But, if you shoot&#013;<br \/>\n at the subject&#8217;s eye level, you can keep your f-number quite low and &#013;<br \/>\npush your background right out of focus.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<h2>Framing and Composition<\/h2>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>It&#8217;s&#013;<br \/>\n important to have a good idea of where you want to have your subject &#013;<br \/>\nwithin the composition and how you want the shot to be framed because a &#013;<br \/>\nbad composition or framing decision can ruin a shot.<\/p>\n<p>\u2018As your &#013;<br \/>\nwildlife subjects are surrounded by things such as branches, grass and &#013;<br \/>\nleaves, you have ample opportunity to experiment with framing,&#8217; says &#013;<br \/>\nPaul. \u2018The environment offers you lots of natural framing devices. Think&#013;<br \/>\n about what you want in the foreground, up top and around the sides of &#013;<br \/>\nyour subject. Even empty space can be used to your advantage. <\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b7_7C6396_Di_Wilkins_framing.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by Pam Sherron <\/em><\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>\u2018It&#013;<br \/>\n is also worth experimenting with where you want the animal to sit &#013;<br \/>\nwithin the frame. You can have the subject central, just off-centre or &#013;<br \/>\nquite low down. Each position says something different. Sometimes your &#013;<br \/>\ncomposition will be dictated by the environment or the behaviour of the &#013;<br \/>\nanimal itself. However, more often than not it is down to you to &#013;<br \/>\nprevisualise and know what will look best.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Captivity vs the Wild<\/strong><br \/>\n\u2018With&#013;<br \/>\n small animals in the wild your biggest challenge is going to be how to &#013;<br \/>\nget close to them,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018While you could potentially shoot them &#013;<br \/>\nin those conditions, it would take a lot of preparation and baiting. &#013;<br \/>\nYou&#8217;ll actually find that many shots of mammals such as dormice and &#013;<br \/>\nharvest mice are done in captivity. The chance of getting them in a good&#013;<br \/>\n enough pose in the wild is almost non-existent.<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b5_7C9a34_David_Morton_wild.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by David Morto<\/em>n <\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Most&#013;<br \/>\n of the shots of harvest mice that you see are done in captivity,&#8217; says &#013;<br \/>\nPaul. \u2018It&#8217;s incredibly rare to see them in the wild. When you see a shot&#013;<br \/>\n of a harvest mouse it will be among barley. That&#8217;s the classic harvest &#013;<br \/>\nmouse shot, but it&#8217;s completely false. In the UK these mice don&#8217;t live &#013;<br \/>\nin places like barley fields &#8211; in fact, they haven&#8217;t done so for about &#013;<br \/>\n50 years. The fields used to be full of weeds and insects for them to &#013;<br \/>\neat, but then we started spraying the fields with pesticides and the &#013;<br \/>\nenvironment became too hostile for the harvest mice to survive. There&#8217;s &#013;<br \/>\nalso not enough cover in these areas now. So even though shots of &#013;<br \/>\nharvest mice on barley are common, they&#8217;re unreal. When taking pictures &#013;<br \/>\nof harvest mice, as well as tackling the classic barley shot, it&#8217;s worth&#013;<br \/>\n attempting to get it on some weeds, which are more common to&#013;<br \/>\n its natural environment.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<h2> Tripod and Lenses<\/p>\n<\/h2>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n<strong>Tripod<\/strong><br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b8_7C562b_Di_Wilkins_tripod.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by Di Wilkins<\/em><br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n\u2018The&#013;<br \/>\n most obvious advantage of tripods is that they give you more control &#013;<br \/>\nover how you compose your shots,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018You have the ability to &#013;<br \/>\nfine-tune your shot, which is a tricky thing to do if you&#8217;re shooting &#013;<br \/>\nhandheld. The weight of the camera in your hands can often make you rush&#013;<br \/>\n your shot because you want to get it done. A tripod allows you to &#013;<br \/>\nmeditate on your shot and recompose if you feel the need to.&#8217;<br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n<strong>Lenses<\/strong><br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nWith&#013;<br \/>\n so many lenses on the market, it can be overwhelming knowing which lens&#013;<br \/>\n to use to capture your subject. However, shooting small mammals has its&#013;<br \/>\n ideal lens in the form of macro.<br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\n\u2018I&#8217;ve always used a 180mm macro&#013;<br \/>\n lens for shooting small mammals,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018If you&#8217;re using a 100mm &#013;<br \/>\nlens, you have to get twice as close to the subject as you would using a&#013;<br \/>\n 180mm for the same size image. The 180mm gives you a little more &#013;<br \/>\ndistance and that makes a big difference when shooting subjects like &#013;<br \/>\nthis. However, 180mm lenses from the major manufacturers can be quite &#013;<br \/>\nexpensive. If you want something a little cheaper it could be worth &#013;<br \/>\nlooking at third-party or second-hand lenses. They may still be pricey, &#013;<br \/>\nbut it&#8217;s worth the investment.&#8217;<br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<h2>Using natural light, fill-flash<\/h2>\n<p>&#013;<br \/>\nEvery photographer shooting on location hopes for good light on the day, but is bright sunlight always ideal?<br \/>\n&#013;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>\u2018If&#013;<br \/>\n you&#8217;re working in a natural environment, many people will tell you that&#013;<br \/>\n the best light occurs in the first and last hour of daylight,&#8217; says &#013;<br \/>\nPaul. \u2018This is because the light is lower and as a result the shadows &#013;<br \/>\nare pushed underneath the animals, which makes the image appear a lot &#013;<br \/>\nmore dramatic. Working with bright sunlight and small mammals can cause &#013;<br \/>\nsome problems. <\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021b4_7C7b02_David_Morton_natural_light.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em>Photo by David Morton<\/em>\n <\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>If&#013;<br \/>\n you have bright sunlight the animals are likely to stay in the shade &#013;<br \/>\nand under cover. Also, with direct light you&#8217;ll cast shadows, which can &#013;<br \/>\nbe a serious issue if you&#8217;re working within a quite tight environment &#013;<br \/>\nlike a set. <\/p>\n<p>\u2018I find that a bright overcast sky is the ideal. &#013;<br \/>\nDull light can actually be used to your advantage. If you are faced with&#013;<br \/>\n this kind of light, I recommend setting your white balance to cloudy. &#013;<br \/>\nIt allows you to bring out the details of the environment when there are&#013;<br \/>\n no shadows.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Fill-flash<\/strong><br \/>\n\u2018I have some serious &#013;<br \/>\nreservations about using fill-flash with small animals,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018I &#013;<br \/>\nbelieve that it can be harmful to them. If you&#8217;re shooting dormice, for &#013;<br \/>\nexample, you have to consider how big they are compared to that bright &#013;<br \/>\nflash, which is likely to be within a few feet of them. People forget &#013;<br \/>\nhow intrusive flash can be. <\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021ba_7C0b0b_fill_flash.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><em><br \/>\nPhoto by Di Wilkins <\/em><\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>If&#013;<br \/>\n you put yourself in a dark room with two or three flashes and have them&#013;<br \/>\n going off one after the other, it takes you a little while to get your &#013;<br \/>\nvision back. Now put yourself in the dormouse&#8217;s position and imagine the&#013;<br \/>\n same thing. I&#8217;ve seen many wildlife photographers relentlessly firing &#013;<br \/>\noff a flashgun at a small mammal and it makes me really angry.&#8217;<\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<h2>Patience<br \/>\n<\/h2>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>Many&#013;<br \/>\n wildlife photographers will tell you that patience is the most &#013;<br \/>\nimportant discipline that can be learned when shooting on location, but &#013;<br \/>\neven within the controlled environment of a wildlife photography centre &#013;<br \/>\nyou may find yourself waiting around for that perfect shot.<\/p>\n<p>&#013;<\/p>\n<p>\n<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/keyassets.timeincuk.net\/inspirewp\/live\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/12\/2011\/07\/11134_7C0000021bf_7C8ce5_patience_Atwell.jpg\" border=\"0\"><\/img><\/p>\n<p>\u2018In&#013;<br \/>\n the wild, if it&#8217;s warm, the animals will stay in the shade and that&#8217;s &#013;<br \/>\nhow they&#8217;ll behave in your set,&#8217; says Paul. \u2018They&#8217;ll scuttle around in &#013;<br \/>\nthe overgrowth and stay under cover as much as they can. If the &#013;<br \/>\nconditions are cool you may get lucky, but also bear in mind the animals&#013;<br \/>\n are likely to be quite wary of you. This is especially important when &#013;<br \/>\nyou fire your camera&#8217;s shutter, as the sound is likely to scare them at &#013;<br \/>\nfirst. However, if your set is created in the correct way and you&#8217;ve &#013;<br \/>\ngiven the animals a tunnel to poke their heads through, your patience &#013;<br \/>\nwill pay off.&#8217;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Wildlife photographer Paul Hobson shows three AP readers how to photograph small British mammals up close using a macro lens. 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